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Material

VacchettaReverse

Ruggero 1906
DESCRIPTION
  • Goodyear welt construction
  • Vacchetta reverse leather
  • Garment-dyed
  • Vibram tank sole
  • Made in Italy
Guidi Rosellini Morosino 1907, new vs. worn

Guidi Rosellini

Founded in 1896 in Tuscany, Italy, as the leather tannery Conceria Guidi e Rosellini, it has continued to supply materials to renowned brands around the world, establishing its position as a tannery to this day.

At the time, Tuscany had an inexpensive supply of beef cattle, and the leather of female calves in particular was of high quality and durable, so the company produced work boots for laborers and hunters.

Guidi Rosellini is the collection that revives the designs and construction of those shoes for the present day.

Guidi Rosellini, shoes lined up
Guidi Rosellini clothes lined up
Guidi Rosellini Ruggero Immanent, full side viewGuidi Rosellini Ruggero Immanent, full side view

Guidi Rosellini, reviving the work boot

Guidi offers many iconic shoes, such as the back-zip boot 988 and the front-zip PL1, and is the best-known brand among so-called “artisan” shoes.

By contrast, Guidi Rosellini bears the same “Guidi” name, yet quite a few people did not even know it existed.

Guidi Rosellini is a line revived because it is a collection close to the heart of Guidi's president.

The vacchetta leather (from heifer calves) used only in Guidi Rosellini is the finest in the company's range, and this iconic leather, combined with a full Vibram tank sole, makes for an approach entirely different from that of Guidi's shoe collection.

In the days when it made work boots as “tools,” intended for use in harsh labor, reverse leather was used so that the grain layer (the outer skin of the leather), which excels in water resistance, was hidden on the inside, protecting it from external scratches and corrosion. As a remnant of that meaning, the Morosino 1907 and Ruggero 1906 still use the reverse side of vacchetta today.

Guidi Rosellini Morosino 1907 Midnight
Guidi Rosellini packaging

One-of-a-kind vacchetta leather

Guidi’s vegetable-tanned vacchetta leather is characterized by abundant natural oils, becoming softer the more it is worn, and its surface aging is dramatic.

The dark brown Morosino in the photo is my own pair, bought new in the same natural color in 2014 and still worn today.

In my case, rather than wearing them while carefully maintaining them, it is quite the opposite: I keep wearing them without minding rain or snow, and care is minimal, just working in cream now and then.

I have done only a countable number of care sessions and nothing special, essentially just wearing them, so it truly feels like they “grew on their own.”

Even Guidi's sales representative says, “With a Vibram tank sole, it's that kind of shoe from the start.” He has hiked mountains in the Ruggero and kept wearing them in rain and snow, and has deliberately worn them for over seven years without any care.

The dark brown of Immanent is a deep brown that can look gray depending on the angle from which you see it.

Because oil is also added during the dyeing process, the leather feels soft from the very beginning, even compared with Natural.

Current models come with a dedicated Guidi Rosellini care cream, so you can simply use that for maintenance.

Also, over long periods of wear, the leather laces may eventually break. However, if this happens within one year of purchase, replacement laces can be ordered free of charge as part of our after-sales service (shipping from Italy billed separately; from the second year, replacements are paid).

In addition, fabric laces are included, so you can swap them in to suit your preference, or wear the shoes with them while waiting for replacement leather laces to arrive.

Guidi Rosellini Ruggero Immanent, side and heel detailGuidi Rosellini Ruggero Immanent, side and heel detail
Guidi Rosellini Ruggero Immanent, full view from the front at an angle
Guidi Rosellini shoes and accessories
Guidi Rosellini Morosino 1907 Midnight
Guidi Rosellini Morosino 1907, new vs. worn

A timeless design, and that is exactly why it is good.

The construction is Goodyear welted.

The soles can be replaced, so these are pieces you can keep for ten or even twenty years.

Incidentally, while cork is mainly placed between the insole and the outsole, Guidi Rosellini uses leather instead of cork, one of the distinctive details that reflect its commitment as a “leather specialist.”

As a result, the more you wear them, the more the leather of the sole takes the shape of your own foot.

The last is shared by Morosino and Ruggero, and each uses an original last that Guidi does not have.

It goes well not only with dark colors such as black but, needless to say, superbly with denim.

Precisely because it fits so many styles, you find yourself reaching for it more and more often.

Beyond the aging that becomes more appealing with every wrinkle, scratch and stain, it is a timeless design that makes you want to wear it today just as when Guidi was making work boots.

Proof enough that you can keep wearing it even as your style and taste in clothes change is the fact that I myself have shared more than ten years with mine.

I intend to keep wearing them for a long time to come.

Guidi Rosellini shoes, introductory visual
Slideshow about our brand