【Pre-order】Guji - Guidi Horse Grain
GUJI – A mule-inspired shoe born from the traditional footwear of Shinto priests.
This piece stands in stark contrast to what one might expect from so-called artisan-style shoes, including the Guidi Rosellini models we also carry. And yet, it is precisely this divergence that brings a new and refreshing dimension to our footwear offering. I was convinced—this would expand one’s stylistic range in an instant.
GUJI has long been a signature model from TACHINO CHIE, but this time marks the first occasion it features Guidi’s Horse Grain leather for the upper. Drawing on the experience gained through countless refinements over the years, this work embodies a sense of sculptural tension pursued without compromise—perhaps the highest achievement to date from TACHINO CHIE.
Each piece of leather is hand-selected by the designer, and this reimagined GUJI is the result of a new collaboration with a trusted artisan. From the minimal upper with restrained welts, to the elegantly tapered waist that fades into a beautifully filled-back outsole, and even the brass nails driven into the heel—the craftsmanship and design integrity are evident in every detail.
Though the pair shown in the photos has only been lightly tried on, the supple and soft horse leather, vegetable tanned with Guidi’s signature process, has already begun to show rich, characterful creases. The seamless, stitchless upper—constructed from a single piece of leather—offers remarkable comfort against the bare foot, wrapping snugly around the instep when worn in the correct size. One can already imagine how uniquely personal the creases will become over time.
The moment you slip your foot in, you’ll feel the shoe cling softly and securely—an embrace that remains stable even during extended wear.
While it may seem like a summer-oriented shoe at first glance, GUJI is actually versatile throughout the year: barefoot in the warmer months, and with socks in cooler seasons. It pairs effortlessly with shorts or wide trousers, as well as with slim cropped pants or slacks with a gentle break.
In fact, the designer herself and some early customers who already own GUJI have shared that they wear theirs in winter with thick socks. Though I have yet to try that myself, it reminds me of how traditional Japanese footwear is styled—with tabi covers and sandals, even in winter. Considering that, wearing GUJI with socks in colder months feels like a natural and entirely viable styling option.
Thus, what may begin as a sandal for summer could soon become a year-round staple for your wardrobe—an idea that resonates deeply once experienced.
Structurally, GUJI features a two-layered sole construction, combining the Mackay and cemented methods. The upper, insole, and first sole layer are stitched together, while the second sole—serving as the outsole that touches the ground—is cemented on top.
While traditional Mackay construction typically leaves visible stitching on the outsole, the new GUJI does away with this convention. The result is not only a cleaner, more minimal aesthetic, but also improved longevity. When resoling is needed, the cemented outsole can be replaced without disturbing the stitched inner structure—a design intended for long-term use.
Usually, the Mackay method limited resoling to only two or three times, as the stitching had to be cut each time. But thanks to this hybrid construction, GUJI can now be resoled semi-permanently—as long as the upper and insole remain intact. This change allows the wearer to maintain and enjoy their personal patina and wear patterns over many years, making GUJI not just a beautiful shoe, but a reliable wardrobe mainstay.
Additionally, when we confirmed the release of this model for our shop, we specifically requested the insole be changed from the original beige leather to black. While aesthetics played a role, the primary reason was practicality—black hides dirt and scuffs better over prolonged use. Because of the slip-on nature of the design, the insole is always visible when the shoes are removed. We felt it should remain as clean-looking as possible.
We were initially concerned about potential color transfer to white socks or bare feet, but after testing several leather options over the course of a few months, we selected deerskin from Charles F. Stead, a long-established British tannery. Chrome-tanned for durability and softness, the leather showed virtually no color migration. In fact, it proved to be such an ideal material for insoles that we now feel confident it was the best possible choice. (All orders will be delivered with this black deerskin insole specification.)
The black GUJI, made with Guidi horse leather.
If you're looking for your first pair of go-anywhere shoes—one you can truly make your own—this is it.
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