Guji - Guidi Horse Grain

 

• Upper: Guidi Horse Grain
• Insole: Charles F. Stead Deerskin
• McKay construction
• Vintage Steel
• Half Rubber
• Made in Japan

“Guji” is a mule-style shoe inspired by the traditional footwear worn by Shinto priests and chief priests.

 

In terms of appearance, it could be said to take a completely opposite direction from so-called artisanal footwear, such as Guidi Rosellini, which we also carry at our store.

I have long worn and appreciated artisanal footwear myself, and there is no doubt that I will continue to do so.

At the same time, however, I was convinced that introducing something entirely different from our established image of footwear could instantly expand the possibilities of one’s personal style. For me, Guji is precisely that kind of piece.

 

Guji has long been a signature model of Tachino Chie, and this particular version features Guidi Horse Grain leather for the upper.

An exquisitely refined slip-on, Guji has undergone numerous updates in an uncompromising pursuit of sculptural beauty and a sense of tension within its form.

The brand originally used smooth, evenly grained domestic kip leather for the upper. At my request, however, it was replaced with Guidi horse leather, chosen for its distinctly raw and untamed character.

Rich in natural oils, Guidi horse leather has a supple, moist and exceptionally soft hand.

Guidi treats veins, scars and fine creases—the traces of the animal’s life—as individual characteristics worthy of appreciation. As a result, the finished shoe already possesses a desirable sense of roughness and worn-in character from the moment it is completed.

 

*The following explanation includes photographs of Guji made from leathers other than Guidi Horse Grain. As the construction remains the same apart from the upper material, these images may still be useful as a reference.

Each piece of leather is personally selected by the designer, and every pair of Guji is created in collaboration with a trusted craftsman.

From the fiddleback outsole to the brass nails applied at the heel, the designer’s pursuit of beauty and the exceptional skill of the craftsman can be felt throughout.

All pairs available for sale are delivered with a toe plate and rubber half sole already installed.

For the rubber half sole, Vibram’s distinctive pattern commonly referred to as the “melon pattern” has been selected for its durability and grip.

Together with the toe plate fitted to the area most susceptible to wear, it adds practicality without compromising the refined appearance of Guji, while also allowing the shoes to be worn immediately upon arrival.

 

The luxurious seamless upper is constructed without any joins from front to back. Even when worn barefoot, it places minimal stress on the instep, while a true-to-size fit creates a secure, enveloping sensation around the foot.

Characteristic of Guidi’s vegetable-tanned leather, the supple and richly oiled horsehide gradually develops deep creases and moulds itself to the shape of the wearer’s foot.

The irresistible anticipation of a completely unique pattern of wear creases forming over time is part of the unmistakable allure of Guidi leather.

 

 

Because of its mule construction, Guji may initially appear to be a shoe intended primarily for summer. It can be worn barefoot during warmer months and paired with socks throughout the rest of the year.

The moment the foot enters the shoe, it feels almost as though the leather is pleasantly adhering to it. This close fit also provides a reassuring sense of stability during extended periods of walking.

It works equally well with shorts and wide-leg trousers, as well as cropped slim trousers and full-length tailored trousers with a slight break.

 

Many customers have told us that, after purchasing a pair, they naturally find themselves reaching for Guji more than any other shoes. This is something I experience in my own daily life as well.

Its visual beauty and strength as an object are undoubtedly the primary reasons, but its versatility also plays a significant role. It is effortless to put on and take off, remains secure while walking, and can be worn with a surprisingly wide variety of clothing and throughout most of the year, with the exception of the coldest winter weather.

Once worn, its appeal becomes immediately clear. Guji is the kind of piece that quickly becomes difficult to do without.

 

The sole is constructed using a hybrid of McKay stitching and cemented construction.

The upper, insole and first sole layer are stitched together using the McKay method. A second outsole, which comes into direct contact with the ground, is then cemented over the first layer.

This construction not only creates a minimalist appearance, but also allows the second, cemented outsole to be removed and replaced independently when a full sole repair eventually becomes necessary.

It is a highly practical specification designed with many years of wear in mind.

 

With conventional McKay construction, the stitching must be cut when replacing the sole, and repairs are therefore generally considered limited to approximately two or three resoles.

By combining McKay and cemented construction, however, the outsole can be maintained and replaced repeatedly, allowing the shoes to remain wearable almost indefinitely, provided that the upper and insole do not sustain irreparable damage.

 

The black insole is made from deerskin supplied by Charles F. Stead, a long-established British tannery.

The model was originally released with a natural vegetable-tanned insole. However, we chose black because it is less likely to show scratches and marks over extended use—and also because I personally preferred the appearance of a black insole.

As Guji is an open-backed shoe, the insole is particularly visible when the shoes are removed. I therefore preferred a material and colour that would retain a cleaner appearance for as long as possible.

The chrome-tanned deerskin shows virtually no colour transfer, while offering both softness and durability. It also provides an exceptionally comfortable feel against the foot.

A black Guji crafted from Guidi horse leather.

For those seeking a dependable and versatile first pair, this is a choice that is difficult to go wrong with.

 

For sizing advice or any other questions, please feel free to contact us via chat or email.