Guji - Porosus Crocodile Nubuck

• Upper: Sumi Dyed Porosus Crocodile
• Insole: Charles F. Stead Deerskin
• Mckay construction
• Made in Japan

GUJI — A mule-style shoe inspired by the traditional footwear of Shinto priests.

Visually, this piece stands in clear contrast to what is typically associated with the artisan footwear genre—such as the Guidi Rosellini, which we also feature in our collection.

Personally, I’ve long worn and loved artisan-style shoes, and that won’t be changing anytime soon. Yet at the same time, I was convinced that introducing a radically different concept like GUJI would instantly expand the framework of one’s personal style.

GUJI has been a long-standing model from TACHINO CHIE. For this iteration, the upper is made from Porosus nubuck—a leather sourced from small crocodiles known for their beautifully uniform square scales and fine grain.

Among crocodile leathers, Porosus is considered the pinnacle in both refinement and rarity—accounting for less than 10% of the global crocodile leather supply.

The Porosus used in this particular GUJI is personally endorsed by the designer, who constantly scours international tanneries for the finest leathers. According to her, the suppleness and elegance of this batch are unmatched.

The image on the left shows the sumi-dyed version; the right is the natural nubuck.
By sanding down the grain side of the leather, all surface shine is removed, leaving a matte, velvety finish.

Unlike the sumi-dyed version, the undyed nubuck is more visually reactive to wear. Over time, creasing develops naturally, and as it absorbs the oils from your hands and environment, the color deepens—evolving into a richer, darker black.

Creating a pair of GUJI in Porosus requires one full crocodile hide per foot—two hides for the pair.

As seen in the photos, it is technically possible to construct both shoes from a single hide, using sections like the tail or flanks. In fact, the sample on the left was made this way (center: sumi-dyed; right: nubuck).

If you look closely, you’ll notice the scale patterns on the left sample do not match between the right and left shoes. That’s due to natural variation across the animal's body—from back to tail.

But the designer, ever the perfectionist, refused to settle. To achieve perfect symmetry, she hand-selects hides with beautiful scale alignment and then carefully matches two hides—left and right—as a mirrored pair. The result is a level of visual harmony that borders on obsession.

As such, GUJI in Porosus naturally occupies a different price point than our other artisan shoes. But considering the rarity and quality of the leather, the meticulous pairing process, the one-hide-per-shoe construction, and the craftsmanship involved in shaping them—this price may not remain sustainable in the future.

Porosus crocodile is also said to be nearly 10 times stronger than cowhide, making it highly resistant to surface scratches—another key feature.

Drawing on years of refinements and evolution, this GUJI embodies a tension-filled sculptural beauty, executed with zero compromise. It represents the current pinnacle of TACHINO CHIE’s craft.

Hand-selected by the designer and brought to life in collaboration with a new, highly skilled artisan, this reimagined GUJI features a minimalist upper with tightly controlled welts, a sculpted waist that fades into a breathtakingly shaped filled-back outsole, and brass nails at the heel—each detail radiating an intense precision and artistry.

For this release, the shoe also comes pre-equipped with vintage steel toe tips, as shown in the photos.

Compared to Guidi horse or Charles F. Stead suede, Porosus is far less stretchable.
That’s precisely why, when worn in your true size, the leather cradles the foot with a snug, almost glove-like fit, ensuring comfort and stability even during prolonged wear.

Though GUJI may give off a summer impression at first glance, it’s wearable across all seasons—barefoot in warmer months, and paired with socks in the cooler seasons.

It styles effortlessly with shorts and wide-leg trousers, of course, but also with slim cropped pants or full-length slacks with a gentle break.

In fact, the designer herself, along with customers who already own GUJI, have told us they wear them even in winter with thick socks.
Personally, I’ve yet to experience that, but it’s not hard to imagine—after all, in traditional Japanese dress, one might wear tabi socks and sandals even in the colder seasons. In that sense, GUJI styled with socks in winter feels entirely natural.

What begins as a sandal for summer has every potential to become a year-round staple.

For this edition, we requested the insole be changed from the original beige leather to black. Aesthetics played a part, but the main reason was functionality—black is far better at concealing scuffs and wear over time.

Because the mule design leaves the insole exposed whenever the shoes are taken off, maintaining a clean, refined appearance was key.

We did have concerns about possible dye transfer to white socks or bare feet, but after testing several leather options, we chose deerskin from the long-standing British tannery Charles F. Stead.

Their chrome-tanned deerskin showed virtually no color transfer and offered exceptional softness and durability. It’s no exaggeration to say this material may have been the ideal solution from the start.

We hesitate to throw around phrases like “once-in-a-lifetime purchase,” but with this breathtaking silhouette and unmatched material beauty, one can’t help but wonder—could there ever be anything beyond this?

A decadent take on GUJI, crafted from a truly singular material.

Should you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us via chat or email. We are happy to help international customers as well.