Guji - Lizard

• Upper: Lizard
• Insole: Charles F. Stead Deerskin
• McKay construction
• Vintage Steel
• Half Rubber
• Made in Japan

“Guji” is a mule-style shoe inspired by the traditional footwear worn by Shinto priests and chief priests.

In terms of appearance, it could be said to take a completely opposite direction from so-called artisanal footwear, such as Guidi Rosellini, which we also carry at our store.

I have long worn and appreciated artisanal footwear myself, and there is no doubt that I will continue to do so.

At the same time, however, I was convinced that introducing something entirely different from our established image of footwear could instantly expand the possibilities of one’s personal style. For me, Guji is precisely that kind of piece.

Guji has long been a signature model of Tachino Chie, and this particular version features lizard leather for the upper.

The minimalist upper, characterised by its restrained welt extension, is made using one full lizard skin for each foot—a total of two skins for the pair.

Each piece of leather is personally selected by the designer, and every pair of Guji is created in collaboration with a trusted craftsman.

From the fiddleback outsole to the brass nails applied at the heel, the pursuit of beauty by the designer and the exceptional skill of the craftsman can be felt throughout.

For the rubber half sole, Vibram’s distinctive pattern commonly referred to as the “melon pattern” has been selected for its durability and grip.

Together with the toe steel fitted to the area most susceptible to wear, it adds practicality without compromising the refined appearance of Guji.

Shown here is the designer’s personal lizard pair, which has been worn frequently over several years.

As the shoes are worn, fine creases gradually develop along the delicate scale pattern unique to lizard leather.

The dimensional character created by these creases is, in my opinion, even more compelling than the appearance of the leather when new.

Despite having been worn frequently for several years, the upper shows very few visible scratches or marks, owing to the naturally resilient surface of exotic leather.

The pair shown in the photographs was made for the designer several years ago and has been worn regularly ever since. The Guji delivered to customers, however, represents the current highest point of the design, reached through numerous rounds of refinement and updating.

Because of its mule construction, Guji may initially appear to be a shoe intended primarily for summer. It can be worn barefoot during warmer months and paired with socks throughout the rest of the year.

It works equally well with shorts and wide-leg trousers, as well as cropped slim trousers and full-length tailored trousers with a slight break.

When Guji is worn with full-length trousers, the heel is concealed beneath the hem, giving it an appearance close to that of a conventional leather shoe.

For precisely this reason, I particularly recommend the exotic-leather version to those who already own black leather shoes.

The textured surface of the exotic leather visible beneath the trouser hem creates an appearance that is clearly distinct from ordinary leather footwear.

Above all, the natural sense of refinement it conveys is one of the greatest attractions of exotic leather.

*The following images also include Guji made from materials other than lizard, but they may still be useful as references for how the mule silhouette can be styled.

Many customers have told us that, after purchasing a pair, they naturally find themselves reaching for Guji more than any other shoes. This is something I experience in my own daily life as well.

Its visual beauty and strength as an object are undoubtedly the primary reasons, but its versatility also plays a significant role. It is effortless to put on and take off, remains secure while walking, and can be worn with a surprisingly wide variety of clothing and throughout most of the year, with the exception of the coldest winter weather.

Once worn, its appeal becomes immediately clear. Guji is the kind of piece that quickly becomes difficult to do without.

The sole is constructed using a hybrid of McKay stitching and cemented construction.

The upper, insole and first sole layer are stitched together using the McKay method. A second outsole, which comes into direct contact with the ground, is then cemented over the first layer.

This construction not only creates a minimalist appearance, but also allows the second, cemented outsole to be removed and replaced independently when a full sole repair eventually becomes necessary.

It is a highly practical specification designed with many years of wear in mind.

With conventional McKay construction, the stitching must be cut when replacing the sole, and repairs are therefore generally considered limited to approximately two or three resoles.

By combining McKay and cemented construction, however, the outsole can be maintained and replaced repeatedly, allowing the shoes to remain wearable almost indefinitely, provided that the upper and insole do not sustain irreparable damage.

The black insole is made from deerskin supplied by Charles F. Stead, a long-established British tannery.

The model was originally released with a natural vegetable-tanned insole. However, we chose black because it is less likely to show scratches and marks over extended use—and also because I personally preferred the appearance of a black insole.

As Guji is an open-backed shoe, the insole is particularly visible when the shoes are removed. I therefore preferred a material and color that would retain a cleaner appearance for as long as possible.

The chrome-tanned deerskin shows virtually no colour transfer, while offering both softness and durability. It also provides an exceptionally comfortable feel against the foot.

The restrained lustre of the black lizard leather never feels excessive; instead, it conveys a sense of elegance and understated sensuality.

The designer, who frequently wears kimono, also pairs the lizard Guji with traditional Japanese clothing.

From casual clothing and tailored trousers to kimono, this lizard version can be styled across an unusually broad range of wardrobes.

It is a particularly strong choice for anyone seeking a pair of shoes that offers a distinctly different impression from their existing footwear.

For sizing advice or any other questions, please feel free to contact us via chat or email.